Planning 101: Decoy Blog and Itinerary

Dudes! I leave tomorrow. As in, the day after today. TOMORROW.

What a weird week this has been. I actually have a lot to say about teaching unstable creative writing students, about racism, about deterministic language…blah blah blah. But, like, hey! I’m going to China. Tomorrow.

So, here’s the deal with the blog: I created a decoy blog for the trip. I will not be posting from The Singing Bird (I don’t think). Go here, instead: http://myadoptionwebsite.com/emmelu/

I did this because I do NOT share The Singing Bird with family and friends IRL (save two) and want to remain somewhat anonymous. Family has a way of outing you. Don’t want that here. So, the deal is that no one mentions SBird or The Singing Bird ANYWHERE over there. ‘Kay?

‘Kay. Compartmentalization is the name of the game. And be warned: you’re going into the land of sweetness. And Jesus. Not necessarily in that order. (Yes, it was a bit of fun negotiating the bible belters who seem to congregate on the myadoptionwebsites. Heh.)

Here’s the itinerary:

Apr. 22 SBird family arrive in Nanjing.

Apr. 23 Meet The Bee!!! (in the morning…Sunday night your time)

Apr. 24 Continue to do the process for notarization.

Apr. 25-28 Sightseeing stuff in Nanjing.

Apr. 29 Pick up The Bee’s passport.

Apr. 30 to May 8 Free in Nanjing. Likely orphanage visit.

May 9 Fly from Nanjing to Guangzhou.

May 10 Medical exam for The Bee.

May 11-14 Sightseeing stuff around GZ and the Island.

May 15. Consulate appointment.

May. 16 Go to souvenir shopping market in the morning. In the afternoon go to the Consulate for ceremony. Then pick-up The Bee’s visa. Leave Guangzhou for home.

May 17 Arrive back at the ranch.

Posted by SBird - 04.19.2007 - 3.49 pm

Planning 101: Gifts for Nannies, Guides, Etc.

Okay, let’s talk about gifts for a minute. I am the kind of person who could really go overboard obsessing about this issue. I know some bloggers who have. I know people who have ordered incredibly intricate giftbags stuffed with goodies from Oriental Trading Company or a similar venue. I know people worry and worry about what to bring. Me too…

…until I came across a couple of “open letters” to the Chinese IA community from people working within agencies in China, letting us know the inside scoop. Then I calmed down significantly. In particular, one of these people offered the piece of advice that I have taken to heart on this subject: Everything you need for giving gifts to nannies, orphanage staff, guides, and officials can be found right in your own supermarket. End of story.

So today I am going to share the list I compiled with help from these two letters. I’m not going to reproduce the letters in toto here, but somewhere in his “going to war” schedules, Johnny posted the one from the Director of LWB, and the other letter (from an American doctor living and working in China now) I found on one of my SN yahoo groups.

First, things they both said NOT to bring as gifts: pen sets and baseball caps (they have received WAY TOO MANY of these as gifts already); anything that is “snow globe-like.”

The doctor actually said this: “I find the Chinese to be very practical people when it comes to gifts: something they can consume or use is typically preferred to something that requires dusting.”

Here’s the list of what they did say to bring, culled from both letters–the quoted language is from these letters; it’s not me:

American ginseng (the actual root/tuber, not the pills or potions)
nuts
salt water taffy
bottles of wine
lotions from Bath and B@dyworks or from the supermarket
nice candles
sachets
sets of paper plates/napkins for holiday or birthday use
ground coffee (it’s terribly expensive in China)
candy (such as Whitman’s sampler)
specialty cookies
vitamins
Ginseng tea (”they are curious about Sleepytime teas that are herbal”)
socks (”the US makes better quality socks and the Chinese people know it”)
placemats
picture frames
potpourri envelopes (”They CANNOT get anything like that in China and it makes small apartments smell great.”)
pretty room fresheners (like the glass ones–”I am asked for these over and over again.”)
Jelly Bellies (”not usually found in China…Nestle and Cadbury chocolate is everywhere now and easy to buy, so this is more unique”)
Anything ‘pretty’.” (”postcards of flowers, sunsets, etc. are so popular because they can be hung on a wall. Similarly, books of flowers, gardening, etc, or calendars with beautiful photos are great as well…they often do not have the funds to buy pretty things like this.”)
deodorant (”Trust us…you cannot buy this in China and they will LOVE IT.”)
wrap-around ear muffs (the flat kind that go behind the head)
Make up (soft colors, any type)
travel-sized lotions and soaps (pretty ones with flowers and good scents)
local treats (like Frango mints–if it’s from your hometown or region, it’s fun for them)
cash (”Remember that the numbers 2, 6, and 8 are good numbers and make sure the RMB is in one of those amounts. Do not do anything with 4. Normally, I will give $10 each, so 80 RMB. That is a very, very nice gift. Some agencies are okay with it, some aren’t. Do not EVER give cash to an official.”)
top-of-the-line disposable razors
M@rlboro cigarettes (”the most appreciated gift I take”)

The doctor described doing a “white elephant gift exchange” with her (Chinese) staff at Christmastime: “The most sought-after items are: bottles of wine, paper plates/napkins for parties (nice sets or even kids birthday party supplies as these are not available in China–floral plates/napkins, for example, or Scoobydoo), body lotion or hand lotion, table items such as placemats, picture frames.”

Everything should go in red gift bags with red tissue paper. Money in red envelopes. (Nothing can be wrapped, of course, until you get there because of airport security.)

So…what am I taking?

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I still have a few more things to buy…the agency says eight or nine gifts, including one appropriate for a man, and one that is “very nice” and also “small and discreet,” which will apparently be sort of smuggled to the woman at the CCAA who works exclusively with our agency’s paperwork. Interesting.

I still have to buy some little lotions and nicely-printed paper plates/napkins sets and tea. At the supermarket. I am determined not to sweat it. Please tell me (BTDTs) if I am walking the right line on this.

Posted by SBird - 03.31.2007 - 3.29 pm

To Parody or Not To Parody?

So many of you do such fantastic posts when it comes to documenting your travels–Millicent at Different Dirt and walternatives come immediately to mind–that I hesitate to post about my WOEFUL trip to the east coast last week. I fear some of you may assume it to be an attempt at parody…which, unfortunately, it is not.

It was All Too Real.

I was set to do a poetry reading at a local university on Long Island as one of the writers in their Visiting Writers Series. I actually signed the contract to do this well over a year ago, like in November of 2005 or something, when I was really pretty excited about it.

Times change. People change. Sometimes, in the meantime, people might even decide to adopt a Waiting Child from China who is almost 19-months-old and has a nickname like The Bee, and can I just say that the desire to read from a stack of year-old poems to an audience of college students who only half care what you might be talking about decreases in direct proportion to how badly you want to meet that daughter and how close you might be to getting to doing so? Er, yeah.

But obligations are obligations. And, in general, I enjoy readings. I was just really hoping I wasn’t socked in to either JFK or O’Hare (had to come down in Chicago on the return leg) in the midst of some blinding blizzard, which y’all seem to be picking up in rapid succession in the latter days of the winter this year.

One of the last things that R. says to me as he drops me off curbside at the airport is “take lots of pictures…I want to see what the east looks like these days.”

Well, okay. But here’s the thing: I was on the ground on Long Island a grand total of 16 hours, and nine of those I spent in bed. I actually don’t often sleep nine hours, and this trip was no exception. But I wound up with a hotel room without heat, and so I spent an inordinate amount of time curled up under the covers, trying to stay warm. And, no, I didn’t demand to switch rooms, as inconceivable as that sounds. When I arrived in my room, I just figured that the frigid temps were the result of it being unoccupied, so I ratcheted up the thermostat to 85 degrees, unpacked all my stuff–even hung the next day’s clothes neatly in the closet and laid out all the toiletries I would need in the morning, when nerves might get the best of me–and went down to the lobby to have dinner before the kitchen closed.

When I came back up to the room, it was stubbornly consistent in its deep freeze. In fact, COLD air was pouring out of the vent, so I just shut the “heat” off completely. It was 11 o’clock at night, I was totally unpacked, and I needed to be up early on east coast time (two hours ahead of where my body was). So, I decided to make the best of it. I put on a turtleneck underneath the jammies and then my overcoat on over that and wore those, plus my gloves, to bed. It felt a little like winter camping, except that the mattress was quite nice.

In the morning, I remembered what R. had asked me to do, and I managed to snap a few shots out the windows. Here are my travel photographs to share with you all:

Long Island morning

Long Island morning 2

Now, I realize these aren’t the sort of thing you’ve come to expect from other travelblogs. No gargoyles, Georgian architecture, statuary, or even a cornice to behold. Nary a single sheep in a pastoral landscape to feast your eyes on, although I must admit to just missing the little flock of Canada geese that winged by as I opened the curtains. Hope that suffices, cause that’s all I got.

I had breakfast with the faculty committee at 9:00 AM, my reading was at 11:00 AM, and by 12:05 PM, I was in a limo on my way back to JFK for the long haul home.

Oh, except for this:

shiner from Spot

When I stumbled exhausted through my front door at midnight that night, my big dog Spot thought it necessary to show me how much I was missed. I was bending over, greeting the other little dogs, and his skullcap met my cheekbone, and I literally dropped to the floor it was so painful. This is the next morning’s fallout. Shiner, doggie-style.

Posted by SBird - 02.26.2007 - 1.00 pm

Scramble.

Yesterday, I had a doctor’s appointment at 8:15 AM. It takes half-an-hour to get to town. At 7:47 I emerged from the house and almost slipped down the front steps, it was so icy. The car was covered in a sheet of it, back and front windshields. My heart sank. I was already late to an appointment that had been cancelled and rescheduled so many times it made the date book scary-black with ink. And now there was ice.

When I lived in Michigan and the car was covered with ice in the mornings, it would take me boiling two pots of water on the stove to pour over the windshield to get it to thaw up enough to scrape off. I was still in Michigan Mind, despite having lived in Arizona for seven years now. I had never encountered ice on the windshields before (frost yes, ice no) here. So I ran my hand along the rear window, and–voila!–it just peeled away. Ahhhh. Arizona is not like the upper midwest. Good to know.

I made it to the appointment, where I requested all the prescription meds I might need for Emme Lu in China. R.’s doctor gave him a real fight about it–especially the antibiotics, which he refused to prescribe even though I had sent R. into his doctor with all the information on ‘orphandoctor.com’ printouts. I don’t have many nice things to say about R.’s doc. He was also the one who questioned why in the world R. would ever want to have more kids, now that his two bios are grown. We have some choice words for him around The SBird Nest. My doctor just cooed appropriately over The Bee’s photos and wrote out the scripts. I wonder whether it’s a woman thing.

My doctor also recommended a pediatrician to me, and I called and have an appointment set up for Emme on March 29th. I bascially realize that there is no way in hell we will be back from China in time to make that appointment, but they weren’t taking April appointments yet, and I wanted to get in the system. So, sometime in March I will call and reschedule the appointment for mid-April, when I think we will safely be back. It was so much fun to answer the woman’s questions about my daughter’s name and my daughter’s birthdate…to actually HAVE answers to these questions is so mindblowing to me…yep, as crazy as it may sound, this is the sort of mindless detail that I just don’t take for granted. For me, mindless details represent that coveted status of parenthood I have been after for so long now.

Speaking of schedules, someone on my SN board who has a LID of 11-14-06 announced today that she just received the LOA (the Letter Seeking Confirmation of Adopter), which is the very last step before TA. It basically signals that your TA is ready and only about two weeks away. This is significant for us because our (new) LID is 11-21-06, which MIGHT mean that we are only a week away from the LOA, and thus only three weeks away from TA. I am SOOO hoping we get this LOA thing before CNY.

It’s still not clear, though, when we might travel…optimistically thinking, it could be a mid-March to late-March trip. But probably more like late-March to early-April. Now that a couple of my fave bloggers Jacquie and Johnny received their referrals, I am wondering whether I will get to meet them around Shamian. Cool if it works out.

Happy Groundhog’s Day, by the way. Does Phil ever see his shadow? I can’t remember that ever happening…the sun’s not ever exactly blazing high in the sky at 7:00 AM or whenever they do the ceremony. Which reminds me. Here is an odd fact about me: I hate sunglasses. I almost never wear them, although I do own several drugstore-variety pairs. I always feel like there is some veil in front of my eyes, and I can’t see when I wear sunglasses. Especially when I’m driving. You might as well throw a bag over my head. Except a bag wouldn’t look nearly as cool. Um, yeah.

Posted by SBird - 02.02.2007 - 1.23 pm

Sin City

What happens in Vegas, doesn’t always stay in Vegas…

(just click on the photos to get a clear view of them…)

Day 1: The Three-Martini Night

Thanks to my wonderful hubby, we got to travel to Vegas the day before my 40th birthday in style…

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I felt like Nancy Drew in her roadster. Unfortunately, fashion does not always allow for function, and–four hours of convertible later–my hair turned to a nice texture of straw with a little string thrown in for good measure.

After dinner, we went to The Lounge, high atop our hotel, to witness the neon desert in person.

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We got there about 10:30, and I ordered a martini. I’m a Tanquerey girl because I like a little bite, and I love vegetation. The more olives the better. The funny thing is, I don’t drink anymore. Not since I sought help for the infertility and my witch doctor acupuncturist suggested I restrict my intake of alcohol (and caffeine, sugar, wheat, and dairy). But you can’t really turn 40 without a little help from your friends, so I managed to break every one of those restrictions this week.

Now, back to the drinking…
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Several martinis later, I was waxing on to my ever-patient husband all about the road of life, and how I was seemingly forever taking exit ramps, when I happened to glance down at my cell phone:

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Oh, NO. I am fucking the freak out. How did this happen??!! I am freaking through my last minute of 30-somethingness, and then

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it’s over. And I’m over it. Or mostly over it. R. told me that I had the death conversation (with myself, apparently) at about 2:00 AM, but I don’t remember too much of that.

Day 2: Here Comes the Sun

On my birthday, we decided to catch some rays by the pool. We soon discovered that there are distinct arenas with distinct demographics out at “the beach” (it’s Vegas, baby, so a beach in the desert is a beach in the desert). By the wave pool, there are your single twenty-somethings in teensy eensy bikinis. There is Jessica Simpson and Fergie on the loudspeakers. There is a lot of coconut oil in the air. I’m only half-sorry to say that we didn’t stay…

we headed over to the Lazy River, a little Motown, and the waft of Coppertone, where all the women slung sarongs around their middles (like me), and most of them had kids splashing around…and I’m thinking…oh, god…this is it…this is 40…and I LIKE it. I LIKE the Lazy River. After all, there’s a current to carry you along…
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which means you don’t have to work too hard, right?

That evening’s libations were more tame…well, except for the absinthe. We decided we needed a little of the Green Goddess to usher in the new decade…

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even though it’s a fake version of the GG since this country does not allow the sale of wormwood-infused liquor. Even though they (”they”=the alcohol scientists, of course) now know that the wormwood in absinthe does NOT make you go insane and do harm to yourself or others. So, my best guess is that what we were really drinking was sambuca with green food dye.

But I really needed it because I was wearing these:

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And, once again, fashion was NOT allowing for function. Holy crap. I thought my feet were going to fall off by the end of the night. And we still had more walking to do because hubby got tickets to see the new Cirque de Soleil show, LOVE, based on all the Beatles tunes. And we had some company. Which meant I had to do a lot of standing in line. In Those Shoes.

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There were some cool stage props, but mostly this was a lot of Soleil without a lot of Cirque. R. was particularly disappointed. I believe he was mumbling something about “mocking his generation.” Or maybe there was just one too many miniskirted clowns on skates.

Days 3-4: Trade Show on a Stick

The rest of our time inVegas was taken up by the trade show for the palm tree farm and by eating.

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Being Vegas, some of the companies with booths at the trade show decided they needed to Do It Up Right–so they hired one of the Cirque de Soleil performers to trapeze in the air above us. No nets. No ropes. Just flipping out.

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They were selling some sort of motor for fish tank filters, I think. Who the hell knows. Who the hell cares.

We got to take the in-laws out to dinner at some schmoozy place that had their wine list completely computerized:

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Ah, the wave of the future. Someday maybe we can even just take our wine in pills, like the astronauts. I wonder what that will do to toasts. Not to mention Holy Communion.

This place also had a hamburger dinner on the menu that–I shit you not–cost $5,000. Don’t believe me? Here’s the beef:

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It does come with a bottle of wine that I imagine makes up about $4,975 worth of the $5,000. But still. You’d have to win pretty damn big at the tables to swallow that. (By the way, we lost $80 in about 2 minutes at the slots and gave up on the gambling for this trip. Losing fast is no fun. I’m not sure why losing slowly is so much more acceptable, but it just is.)

Finally, I will leave you with what I now consider to be The Message of Turning 40 for me: A Ladybug Sighting!!!!

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There she was, on my plate no less. A-plum-tomato-and-black-olive-studded LADYBUG. And I ate her right up.

Posted by SBird - 09.23.2006 - 3.13 pm

Crossing Borders

Sometimes life serves you up a set of circumstances that causes you to challenge yourself in ways you never thought you would, to learn things about the world and yourself you never thought you would have to learn, and to do things you never thought you would have to do.

So it was that I found myself two mornings ago sitting underneath the umbrelled tables in front of the McDonalds at seven-thirty in the morning in Nogales, Arizona. In a few minutes, I would be picked up by a doctor I had never met before and driven across the international border to his clinic in Nogales, Mexico, a walk-up room above an unassuming street littered with store-front dentists and vendors selling fake Gucci sunglasses and, well, just generally littered.

In the van with R. and I would be a couple from the Bay Area (as they referred to it…being from the Chesapeake Bay area originally, I thought better of pointing out to them that there might be more than one), Mark and Kathy. We were two couples from two different states coming to a foreign country at the same time for the same reason: we were infertile and needed a treatment for recurrent miscarriage that the FDA in all its wisdom has determined to be “unreliable,” but which our (American) doctor–who is the leading specialist in the extremely specialized field of reproductive immunology–tells us we must have. So it was that we gathered in another doctor’s unassuming office above the unassuming street to exchange pleasantries before the procedure that we must have but that we cannot have back in our own country, in our own towns, near our own houses.

Donkey working in Nogales

At first I think that it is nice to have another couple there. They are like us, even though they tell us that this is their second trip to the clinic. Their first treatment didn’t raise the leukocyte antibodies that need to be raised enough, so they are back again. I feel bad that they have to do this again. I am sure that they have experienced multiple miscarriages, as I have, which is the only reason to be there, after all. I am sure they are like me. Perhaps, also, being a bit out of my element, I am looking for familiarity. I want her to be like me. Then she mentions, casually, that they had a little girl a year ago, but “of course” they want to do it again. And I realize that, in fact, they are really not like me. Not like me at all. My stomach falls a little bit.

When it is our turn to go back to the exam room, R. takes the lead. It is his blood that the nurse will extract, 10 tubes in all, as R. lies back on an obstetrical bed between the ultrasound machine and the wall. The nurse, who the doctor has introduced to us as Maribel–”the same name as Maria Compagne in Spain”–has trouble operating the levers on the bed that raise and lower it. R. bounces around. I can tell he hates being on the bed. I silently wonder how he would feel about having to stick his feet in the stirrups, which, thankfully, I don’t have to do for this treatment.

After she’s done taking his blood, he sits up, intending to help her out by just hopping off quickly. She objects and makes him lie back down until she has raised the back and lowered the front to its original position. They speak in Spanish while she fumbles with the controls. I once again regret choosing to take French in high school. The doctor collects the vials and tells us to explore the town for a couple hours and then return.

We have been to Nogales before on purely sight-seeing trips and know our way around a little bit. We find a bakery and fill a bag with pastries and buy coffee and go sit in the plaza to eat our breakfast near this cool mural:

Nogales Mural

American tourists are generally very conspicuous in Nogales. But it is still early in the morning, before the Americans come to shop for trinkets and fill their prescriptions and get their teeth cleaned, and we are generally ignored, except by the pigeons. Pigeons are the same everywhere, I think. Later we do a little shopping at my favorite store in Nogales, where I buy some milagro art to add to my collection at home:

IMG_3362The pink fuzzy Mary is from Sante Fe. She is one of my favorites. The ball covered with milagros is my new purchase. Milagros are small metal (!) charms that are typically found in the shape of human body parts, but can also be animals, houses, cars, etc. In some Catholic countries (Mexico, Italy, India’s Goa region), you purchase the charms and pin them to a saint’s clothing (if your church houses a dead saint) or to a saint’s picture and ask for a prayer for that particular part of the body. Hearts are very popular.

I’m not Catholic, but I began collecting milagros about five years ago. And…yes…I do have a milagro in the shape of a baby that hangs from my keychain.

After two hours, we head back to the clinic. We go into the doctor’s office, sit across his desk from him, and he brings out two syringes full of clear serum, labeled #3 and #4. (Presumably, Mark and Kathy got vials marked #1 and #2.) This clear stuff is actually R.’s white blood cells, spun down from 10 tubes of the red stuff. I spread my forearms out on the desk, and the doctor injects me four times under the skin on each arm, emptying the syringes. It burns. It burns a lot. My skin puffs up a little.

This is all good, of course. The point of the treatment is to stimulate my immune system to react against R.’s blood/DNA. When I’m pregnant, my immune system can’t tell that the growing mass of cells is a developing baby because R.’s DNA isn’t differentiated enough from mine to register the baby as not my body, not my cells, not my DNA. So, my immune system attacks the growing baby as if it is a cancerous bunch of my own cells. The treatment (called LIT–Leukocyte Injection Therapy) is supposed to teach my body to “recognize” R.’s DNA as different from mine, so that when my body encounters it as part of the growing baby, it will know it is not a growing mass of my own cancer cells, but rather a baby, with a different bunch of DNA cells–and thus not attack it. Make sense? Yeah, it took me a while too.

Here is what one of my arms looks like just after the treatment:

LITWhen the doctor is done, R. hands him $600 in cash, which he pockets quickly without counting. It feels a bit like we’ve just completed a drug deal, which I guess, in a way, we have. Then we leave. We walk across the border, where we wave our passports at the Border Patrol guard who doesn’t even glance their way (probably not what you wanted to hear on September 11th), and back to our car, and back to the highway, and back to our life the way it was before. Except for these nasty-ass welts I have on my forearms. That now itch.

Challenges, it seems, often come and find you, rather than the other way around. Traveling to another country for a controversial fertility treatment that is outlawed by the FDA is not something I ever thought I’d do. When I first joined an online infertility support group last year, several of the board’s members would discuss the LIT treatments they were told by their doctor to go do. I would always skip over those postings. They didn’t apply to me: in 12 years of trying, I had never been pregnant and, therefore, had never miscarried, and I was operating on a strictly “need to know” basis. What I didn’t need to know, I wasn’t going to bother with.

But that’s the funny thing about the way things work. When push came to shove, I did need to know, and I did end up doing something I never thought I would (because I never thought I would have to).

And, frankly, adoption is the same way for me. It wasn’t something I considered seriously until I had to. Not that I did any agonizing hand-wringing about adoption when it did cross my radar screen. I was thoughtful about the complexities involved in adopting transnationally/racially, but I was immediately excited by the prospect too. I just never had thought about doing it until doing it became, potentially, my only way to parent. It was a challenge to my expectations that led me to adopt.

I think that’s often the way it goes. We get pushed into a learning experience, a growing experience. It’s not that we don’t want to be there, growing, changing, learning; it’s just that we aren’t always out there on the hunt for these sort of “teachable moments”–to borrow a colloquialism from the teaching world–because they aren’t the easiest things in the world. It isn’t easy to change. It isn’t easy to grow. That’s why it can be so wonderful.

Infertility pushed me to consider adoption. Miscarriages pushed me to consider alternative fertility treatments. This interminable wait for a referral may push me to consider a special needs adoption. And, although I know that a-parents who “switch” from non-special needs to special needs adoptions have a really bad rep in the IA community, I’d actually like to argue that their switch may be a part of their process, like choosing adoption in the first place may be a part of the process of coming to parent at all. Perhaps it’s not just a hypocritical grab at an expedited referral but, rather, a “teachable moment,” in which an impasse, a challenge to their expectations, causes them to re-think their choices. Causes them to grow.

I’ll write more about this subject of switching to a special needs adoption in the near future. Right now, I just wanted to throw it out there as something we’ve been thinking about, talking about. We were approved in our homestudy to adopt a special needs child because it’s what we wanted to do for our second adopted child from China. Now, it doesn’t look like we’ll get the chance to adopt a second time from China, given the length of the wait and our ages. So, we’re considering a new plan. Stay tuned.

And the IVF is still a go for January, if the LIT treatment and the other immunology treatments I’ve got scheduled, work. Life is certainly never dull.

Posted by SBird - 09.11.2006 - 10.30 am

To Hell and Back.

Desert Center cafe

So, we’re back from a quick trip to the family’s palm tree farm (see previous post).

Some impressions:

When we arrived on Thursday night, it felt pretty darn hot in the little house, despite the fact that my FIL had stopped by and made sure the thermostat was down so the air could cool. R. blamed it on the open doggy door. I raided the freezer and sat there in the living room with packages of frozen hamburger meat pressed up to my neck and forehead. We had every ceiling fan running on full blast, the thermostat down to 50, and still we were basically circulating the 115 degree air from outside. By the time R. and I got on the same page–that the AC was, in fact, broken–it was six o’clock on Friday night. Here is the nice repairman, who gave up the first evening of his weekend to help us:

ACmanThank you, nice repairman.

We were there for three nights. Very little is open in the desert’s off-season, so we had dinner at the same restaurant three times. This particular place is known for its oil paintings, which cover all the walls and were done by the same artist. There must be about 150 paintings, and they all contain stagecoaches. The artist, Marjorie Reed, clearly had a thing for stagecoaches:

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Between the stagecoaches and the menu, there was a lot of repetition associated with dinner on this trip.

We also encountered some strange animal activity: a coyote stalked R. for about 1/2 an hour when he was out on a run. (He runs in the early morning, so it’s only in the low-90s.)

On our way to dinner every night, we came across a series of great-horned owls sitting in the middle of the road. Their heads would swivel around when the headlights hit them. I have seen some owls in my time but never hunting while on the ground. I guess it’s easier just to wait there on the double-yellow line for the mice to come running across the open road then it is to catch them in the brush.

Lastly, this roadrunner came up on the porch and just hung out, staring at the front door. Not sure what message he wanted to deliver.

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We took the dogs out for a run, but they can only last a few minutes in their fur coats, which is a good thing since I get tired of worrying about cactus, coyotes, and fire ants (no snakes out in that heat!!).

R. has a lovely toxin-bruise on the back of his shin from his experience with a jumping cholla during his run…in fact, he came back fairly bloodied from his hike-jog on a trail that disappeared. The guidebook failed to mention that the trail succumbs to open desert and involves some amount of scrambling over rocks in a steep canyon. R.’s comment: “those pioneers from back east must have taken one look at this place and been convinced they had arrived in Hell.” This from a guy who’s been coming here for nigh-on thirty years.

And, yet, we had a great time.

Posted by SBird - 08.21.2006 - 12.18 pm

Some Like It Really Hot.

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When the SBirds decide to take a break from their nest, they do it in true desert style. Where, you might ask, do the SBirds decide to go in the middle of August to escape the heat of their desert home? …To the snowy mountains? To the breezy shore? To the pool at the nearest Y? No way. That keeping-cool stuff is for amateurs. The SBirds’ destination of choice is…more desert…but really serious desert, the kind that is very brown, very sandy and hovers around 125 degrees this time of year. For those of you in the know, we’re talking Mohave, not Sonoran.

R.’s family owns a farm in the middle of the desert. The Real Desert. It’s a palm tree farm. Having grown up back east, I didn’t even know there were such things as palm tree farms. Not that I thought that palm trees grew on trees (sorry, couldn’t resist), but I just had never thought about it before. I mean, who does this?

It turns out, my FIL does. He’s pretty good at it. He basically has his own little palm tree empire down there, although he doesn’t live on-site anymore, preferring the cool breezes (see first paragraph) of the coast. R. has now become the farm’s Vice President, in addition to his regular, man-o-academia job. I think he enjoys it because there are a lot of interesting politics involved in palm-tree growing these days, which can be summed up in one word: water. The depletion of aquifers in the west is a hot-button topic, especially as the baby-boomers begin to retire in large numbers and flock to the southwest.

R. is currently engaged in a confrontation with the local water board there, who want to shut down all the area’s agriculture to “save the water supply.” I put that in quotes because that’s their party line; what they don’t say upfront is that they actually want the agricultural land to build new residential developments (including golf courses) on. Since the farmers were there first, long before the residential folks, they acquired some pretty choice land. And now the developers and city planners want it.

It’s fascinating to listen to the arguments because my knee-jerk response to water politics in the west is to preserve the aquifers at (nearly) all costs, but, in this case at least, it’s not that easy. Do we really think that trading family farms (not just palms, also citrus, artichokes, grapes, etc.) for golf courses is a viable solution? Are we prepared to wipe out an entire segment of the community (the farmers) to make room for new residents? And–the sticky wicket for me: is a palm tree farm categorically different than a citrus, artichoke, grape, or other food-based farm? In other words, how important is it for a palm tree farm to exist?…doesn’t it just provide trees used to develop (and deplete) other places, like Las Vegas and Palm Springs? Is the aesthetic appeal of a palm tree on the grounds of Harrah’s really cause for allowing the palm tree farmer to exist? But, if he didn’t exist, would we allow the land to remain arid or would we build houses and golf courses on it?

I’m a bit conflicted, as you can see.

I just wanted to cover the territory before showing you some cool pictures.

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These photos show the trees in various stages of production.

In the 1980s, my FIL grew the palm trees for the Winter Garden in NYC. This is the all-glass structure that was part of the World Trade Center complex. He had to grow the trees for many months under a huge shade-cloth canopy, so the trees would get used to living in low-light conditions. Here’s the remnants of that job:

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The trees survived 9-11. In fact, I remember seeing some footage from the day after, where firefighters were searching through the rubble and picking their way past these dust-whitened palms.

When the trees get very large, they can create a dense forest. One part of the farm is so dense that you can lost in there…the trees all look alike. Deciduous trees don’t always look alike, but palm trees of the same age do, unless they grow crooked, which sometimes they do. But it’s hard to tell where you are if you get in there deep enough.

I mention this because my FIL embedded a secret in the heart of the densest part of the farm. It’s a place he calls his Shangri-La, a garden and yard and party-house where he used to host some wild times in the early 70s (wild in a Rat Pack sort of way). It’s actually a little creepy to go there now, and even a little sad, as if the desert version of Miss Havisham is going to step out from behind one of the rangy hibiscus plants and accuse you of trespassing.

But there’s a little house on the farm that the dogs love (a doggie door with a fenced-in running space) and my FIL and MIL will be there and R. will have a business meeting and I’ll hang out and cook and watch birds and maybe even write some new poems. But I probably won’t be able to blog (antiquated computer connection). So, I’ll see y’all next week.

Posted by SBird - 08.16.2006 - 5.28 pm